Guidelines

 

 

Necklines

Bateau (Boat) Softly follow curve of collarbone, high in both front and back, opening wide at the sides and ending in shoulder seams.
Contessa Off the shoulder gown attached to sleeves that are cut approximately 3" below the shoulder and form a continuous line across the arms and chest when arms are to the side.
Halter 
 
A plunging V-collar fastening in the back; leaving the shoulders and back bare.
Illusion Yoke 
 
Transparent fabric from the neckline to the bust line.
Jewel 
 
Rounded neckline falling just around the base of the neck.
Open Sweetheart Back Heart-shaped opening often fringed with beads; also known as keyhole back.
Portrait Collar 
 
Fabric framing the shoulders, often with gathers and some decorative fabric detailing in the center above the bust line.
Queen Anne High-standing collar at the back of the neckline, cupping the sides of the neck, then sculpting low across the chest to outline a bare yoke generally with a sleeveless blouse and sweet-heart or v-neck style cut in front.
Sabrina  Laying on the contour of the chest from collarbone to collarbone.
Scoop Neck  Curved neckline cut high or low in the back, front, and or both.
Sweetheart Low cut neckline which forms the top half of a heart at the bust line.
Square Half-square cutout at the neckline in front and or back. 
Tank Sleeveless gown with scoop neck.
U-Scalloped Open yoke in the shape of a U, embellished with scalloped lace appliqués.
V-Neck V-shaped neckline; can be high or low, tapered or plunging.
Wedding Band Yoke is either open or of sheer net with an ornate band fitting snugly on the neck creating a choker affect.

Sleeves -  fabric can be sheer, lace, or opaque.

Bishop Long sleeve which is fuller on the lower forearm and gathered with a wide cuff at the wrist.
Cap Very short sleeve barely covering or cupping the shoulders.
Dolman Cape-like sleeve generously billowing from the armhole down to a gather at the wrist.
Gigot (Leg-of-Mutton) Loose, full sleeves rounded from the shoulder to just below the elbow, then shaped to the arm, often ending in a point at the wrist.
Illusion Long or short slender sleeves following the shape of the arm which are made from illusion net and often covered with beaded and sequined appliqués.
Juliet Long sleeve with a small pouf at the shoulders extending down to a fitted lower arm.
Renaissance Slightly gathered puff at the shoulder, tapering down the arm to just below the wrist on the hand.
Short Fitted sleeve slightly longer than cap and falling just short of mid-way between the shoulder and the elbow.
Spaghetti Very thin straps running from front to back of dress over shoulders.
Strapless Form fitting and held in place only by upper body leaving front upper chest, back and shoulders bare.
Tank Sleeveless top tapering gracefully into bodice and back.
Tapered Slightly gathered shoulder with little fullness, tapering down the arm to the wrist.
Three-quarter Loose or fitted sleeve ending slightly below the elbow to mid-lower arm.
Tulip Cap sleeve made of overlapping fabric that curves into a petal like shape over the top of the arm.
Poet Fitted long sleeve with an outward flare just above the wrists.

Gown Types

A-line Gown: Slim fitting; vertical seams flow from shoulders to hem.  No real defined waistline or seam at waist.  This gown generally has a flared hem and the waistline is not as defined as other type gowns.  Can be slim, tapered or flaring.
Baby Ruffles: Row upon row of layering or lace arranged one above the other as "tiers".
Ball Gown:  Fitted waist and bodice flowing into a very full Cinderella-like skirt.
Basque Gown: Natural waist with V-front.
Bolero Jacket: Short jacket with an open front, curved below the bust line and above the natural waistline.
Bouffant: Very, very full skirt most often worn with a hoop slip.
Box Pleated: Skirt featuring a natural waist with deep pleats of parallel fabric folds in the front, back, or both.
Bustle: Thick padding worn to create a draping dropped humpback effect on the back, below the waistline.  Lifting the center back of the train to the waistline and attaching it there with buttons or hooks may also create a bustle effect.
Diamond Organza Ruffles: Layers of ruffled organza, hemmed with a fine "fish line" along the edge of the ruffles, creating a full, rippling effect which often cascades into the train.
Empire Gown: Small, generally scooped or square bodice which falls right under the bust line with a slender, graceful skirt that is not form fitting but is slenderizing or slimmer than a full skirt.
Mermaid: Slime, body hugging gown, with or without a waistline, flaring from the knees or slightly above.  Similar to a Trumpet gown.
Pickup Hemline: Fabric is gathered at one point and draped in a curve effect to another point and may be gathered again several times to encircle the gown.
Princess: Slim fitting gown with a gently flared skirt and vertical seams flowing from the shoulders to the hem.
Redingcoat: Appears as an open or upside-down V-splitting skirt covering the skirt of an A-line or full gown.
Sheath Gown: Narrow form fitting gown usually sculpting the body and hugging the hips. Many times this gown comes with a detachable train.
Trumpet: Slim, body hugging skirt that gently flares out beginning mid-thigh.

Gown Length

Ankle: Hemmed at the ankles.
Ballerina: Ankle length with a full skirt.
Floor: Falls to and may drape onto the floor.
Hi-Lo Intermission in front and floor length in back.
Intermission: Hem falls somewhere between the knees and ankles.              
Knee-Length Hemmed just below the knee.
Miniskirt Falls just above the knee.
Tea-Length Hem ends at mid-calf.

Fabrics

Brocade Jacquard-woven fabric with raised designs.
Charmeuse Lightweight, smooth, semi-lustrous satiny fabric.
Chiffon Delicately sheer, a thin, transparent fabric or silk or rayon with a soft finish.
Crepe Silk or rayon fabric made with crepe yarn, with a slight pebbly texture.
Eyelet Small, asymmetrical holes finished with a buttonhole stitch, often creating a floral pattern; open-weave embroidery.
Faille Shiny, tightly woven fabric made of silk or rayon and has a crosswise rib effect.
Linen Cloth made of flax, noted for its strength, coolness, and luster.
Moiré Polyester or silk taffeta patterned to glisten like water when viewed in diffused light.
Point d'esprit Polyester net with the yarns sewn together to create a diamond pattern.
Polynet Netting used to make yokes and sleeves to which Schiffli embroidery and beaded and/or sequined appliqués is often attached.
Organdy Sheer, transparent crisp silk or rayon; sometimes painted or embroidered.
Organza Sheer, crisp fabric like chiffon, but with a stiff finish and a reflective, crystal-like appearance.
Satin Opaque fabric, woven in satin weave featuring a smooth finish which can be shiny (silk-faced) or dull (matte), lightweight (slipper) or heavier (Italian).
Taffeta Crisp, smooth fabric with a small, crosswise rib.
Tulle Tiny meshed net of a silk, cotton or synthetic fabric, usually found in layers covering a full satin skirt.

Trains

Bustle Entails pulling the train up and attaching it to the wedding gown. Bustling is usually done by having tiny hooks sewn into the back of the gown and the train. It allows for freedom of movement during the reception.
Cathedral Train: (5) Second longest train, extending 6 1/2 to 7 1/2 feet from the waist.
Chapel Length Train:                (3) Medium length train, extending 3 1/2 to 4 1/2 feet from the waist.
Court Train        (2) Second shortest train, extending out only one yard from the waist.
Detachable Train: The train is joined to gown with hooks and eyes rather than sewn into place so you can remove it after the ceremony.
Monarch Train:  (6) Longest train, extending 12 or more feet from the waist.
Semi-cathedral Train:                (4) Shorter than Cathedral and longer than Chapel train, extending 4 1/2 to 5 1/2 feet.
Sweep Train:     (1) Shortest train, extending back 8-12 inches after touching the floor.

Veils

Ballet-length          (6) Ankle length and often referred to as the waltz veil.
Blusher                 (2) Probably one layer of veiling worn forward over the face or back over the headpiece.
Cascade               (5) Very full, layered look with several differing lengths of veiling.
Cathedral-length    (7) Longest of veils, generally at least 3 ½ feet in length. Trails behind the bride several feet and attaches to headpiece or waist.
Chapel-length        (8) Veiling that reaches the floor but doesn't trail behind the bride, always worn with a full-length wedding gown.
Fingertip

(4)

Gracefully falls across the shoulders to the fingertips when the arm is extended forward levelly (about waist level),
Fly-away               (3) Multiple layers of veiling all brushing or ending at the shoulders.
Mantilla                 (1) Made popular by Jackie O when she married John Kennedy - this veil is a circle of lace or nylon draped loosely over the bride's head like a scarf.

Headpiece Styles

Ballet-length          (5) Ankle length and often referred to as the waltz veil.
Coronet Crescent shaped base decorated with satin and lace, resting high on the crown of the head.
Floral Wreath Circle of flowers or baby's breath that sits on top of the head, and may or may not circle at mid-forehead.
Juliet Cap Fits crown of head snugly and is ornately decorated with pearls and sequins.
Mantilla Lace trimmed netting with or without a simple base which fits closely across the top of the head and is usually secured with an elegant comb, gently framing the face.
Picture Hat Very large brim often elaborately decorated with laces, beads, and sequins.
Tiara Crown which rests high atop the head often encrusted with pearls, crystals, rhinestones, or lace.