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Guidelines
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Necklines
|
Bateau (Boat) |
Softly follow curve of
collarbone, high in both front and back, opening
wide at the sides and ending in shoulder seams. |
|
Contessa |
Off the shoulder gown
attached to sleeves that are cut approximately 3"
below the shoulder and form a continuous line across
the arms and chest when arms are to the side. |
Halter
|
A
plunging V-collar fastening in the back; leaving
the shoulders and back bare. |
Illusion
Yoke
|
Transparent fabric from the neckline to the bust
line. |
Jewel
|
Rounded
neckline falling just around the base of the neck. |
|
Open Sweetheart Back |
Heart-shaped opening
often fringed with beads; also known as keyhole
back. |
Portrait
Collar
|
Fabric framing the shoulders, often with gathers
and some decorative fabric detailing in the center
above the bust line. |
| Queen
Anne |
High-standing collar
at the back of the neckline, cupping the sides of
the neck, then sculpting low across the chest to
outline a bare yoke generally with a
sleeveless blouse and sweet-heart or v-neck style cut in
front. |
| Sabrina |
Laying on
the contour of the chest from collarbone to
collarbone. |
| Scoop
Neck |
Curved neckline cut
high or low in the back, front, and or both. |
|
Sweetheart |
Low
cut neckline which forms the top half of a heart at
the bust line. |
| Square |
Half-square cutout at the neckline in front and or
back. |
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Tank |
Sleeveless gown with
scoop neck. |
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U-Scalloped |
Open yoke in the shape
of a U, embellished with scalloped lace appliqués. |
| V-Neck |
V-shaped
neckline; can be high or low, tapered or plunging. |
|
Wedding Band |
Yoke is either open or
of sheer net with an ornate band fitting snugly on
the neck creating a choker affect. |
Sleeves - fabric can be sheer,
lace, or opaque.
| Bishop |
Long sleeve which is fuller
on the lower forearm and gathered with a wide cuff at
the wrist. |
| Cap |
Very short sleeve
barely covering or cupping the shoulders.
|
| Dolman |
Cape-like sleeve
generously billowing from the armhole down to a gather at
the wrist. |
| Gigot
(Leg-of-Mutton) |
Loose, full sleeves rounded
from the shoulder to just below the elbow, then shaped
to the arm, often ending in a point at the wrist. |
| Illusion |
Long or short slender
sleeves following the shape of the arm which are made
from illusion net and often covered with beaded and
sequined appliqués. |
| Juliet |
Long
sleeve with a small pouf at the shoulders extending down
to a fitted lower arm. |
| Renaissance |
Slightly gathered puff at
the shoulder, tapering down the arm to just below the
wrist on the hand. |
| Short |
Fitted sleeve slightly
longer than cap and falling just short of mid-way
between the shoulder and the elbow. |
| Spaghetti |
Very thin
straps running from front to back of dress over
shoulders. |
| Strapless
|
Form fitting
and held in place only by upper body leaving front upper
chest, back and shoulders bare. |
| Tank |
Sleeveless
top tapering gracefully into bodice and back. |
| Tapered |
Slightly gathered shoulder
with little fullness, tapering down the arm to the wrist. |
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Three-quarter |
Loose or fitted sleeve
ending slightly below the elbow to mid-lower arm. |
| Tulip |
Cap sleeve
made of overlapping fabric that curves into a petal like
shape over the top of the arm. |
| Poet |
Fitted
long sleeve with an outward flare just above the wrists. |
Gown Types
| A-line
Gown: |
Slim
fitting; vertical seams flow from shoulders to hem.
No real defined waistline or seam at waist. This
gown generally has a flared hem and the waistline is
not as defined as other type gowns. Can be
slim, tapered or flaring. |
| Baby
Ruffles: |
Row upon
row of layering or lace arranged one above the other
as "tiers". |
| Ball
Gown: |
Fitted waist and bodice
flowing into a
very full Cinderella-like skirt. |
| Basque
Gown: |
Natural
waist with V-front. |
| Bolero
Jacket: |
Short
jacket with an open front, curved below the bust
line
and above the natural waistline. |
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Bouffant: |
Very,
very full skirt most often worn with a hoop slip. |
| Box
Pleated: |
Skirt
featuring a natural waist with deep pleats of
parallel fabric folds in the front, back, or both. |
| Bustle: |
Thick
padding worn to create a draping dropped humpback
effect on the back, below the waistline.
Lifting the center back of the train to the
waistline and attaching it there with buttons or
hooks may also create a bustle effect. |
| Diamond
Organza Ruffles: |
Layers
of ruffled organza, hemmed with a fine "fish line"
along the edge of the ruffles, creating a full,
rippling effect which often cascades into the train. |
| Empire
Gown: |
Small,
generally scooped or square bodice which falls right under the bust
line with a slender, graceful skirt that is not form fitting but is
slenderizing or slimmer
than a full skirt. |
| Mermaid: |
Slime,
body hugging gown, with or without a waistline,
flaring from the knees or slightly above.
Similar to a Trumpet gown. |
| Pickup
Hemline: |
Fabric
is gathered at one point and draped in a curve
effect to another point and may be gathered again
several times to encircle the gown. |
|
Princess: |
Slim
fitting gown with a gently flared skirt and vertical
seams flowing from the shoulders to the hem. |
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Redingcoat: |
Appears
as an open or upside-down V-splitting skirt covering
the skirt of an A-line or full gown. |
| Sheath
Gown: |
Narrow form fitting gown usually
sculpting the body and hugging the hips. Many
times this gown comes with a detachable train. |
| Trumpet: |
Slim,
body hugging skirt that gently flares out beginning
mid-thigh. |
Gown Length
| Ankle: |
Hemmed
at the ankles. |
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Ballerina: |
Ankle
length with a full skirt. |
| Floor: |
Falls to
and may drape onto the floor. |
| Hi-Lo |
Intermission in front and floor length in back. |
|
Intermission: |
Hem
falls somewhere between the knees and ankles.
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Knee-Length |
Hemmed
just below the knee. |
|
Miniskirt |
Falls
just above the knee. |
|
Tea-Length |
Hem ends
at mid-calf. |
Fabrics
| Brocade |
Jacquard-woven fabric with raised designs. |
| Charmeuse |
Lightweight,
smooth, semi-lustrous satiny fabric. |
| Chiffon |
Delicately
sheer, a thin, transparent fabric or silk or rayon with
a soft finish. |
| Crepe |
Silk or
rayon fabric made with crepe yarn, with a slight pebbly
texture. |
| Eyelet |
Small,
asymmetrical holes finished with a buttonhole stitch,
often creating a floral pattern; open-weave
embroidery. |
| Faille |
Shiny,
tightly woven fabric made of silk or rayon and has a
crosswise rib effect. |
| Linen |
Cloth made
of flax, noted for its strength, coolness, and luster. |
| Moiré |
Polyester or
silk taffeta patterned to glisten like water when viewed
in diffused light. |
| Point
d'esprit |
Polyester
net with the yarns sewn together to create a diamond
pattern. |
| Polynet |
Netting used
to make yokes and sleeves to which Schiffli embroidery
and beaded and/or sequined appliqués is often attached. |
| Organdy |
Sheer,
transparent crisp silk or rayon; sometimes painted or
embroidered. |
| Organza |
Sheer, crisp
fabric like chiffon, but with a stiff finish and a
reflective, crystal-like appearance. |
| Satin |
Opaque
fabric, woven in satin weave featuring a smooth finish
which can be shiny (silk-faced) or dull (matte),
lightweight (slipper) or heavier (Italian). |
| Taffeta |
Crisp,
smooth fabric with a small, crosswise rib. |
| Tulle |
Tiny meshed
net of a silk, cotton or synthetic fabric, usually found
in layers covering a full satin skirt. |
Trains
| Bustle |
Entails
pulling the train up and attaching it to the wedding
gown. Bustling is usually done by having tiny hooks
sewn into the back of the gown and the train. It
allows for freedom of movement during the reception. |
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Cathedral Train: (5) |
Second
longest train, extending 6 1/2 to 7 1/2 feet from
the waist. |
| Chapel
Length Train: (3) |
Medium
length train, extending 3 1/2 to 4 1/2 feet from the
waist. |
| Court
Train (2) |
Second
shortest train, extending out only one yard from the
waist. |
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Detachable Train: |
The
train is joined to gown with hooks and eyes rather
than sewn into place so you can remove it after the
ceremony. |
| Monarch
Train: (6) |
Longest
train, extending 12 or more feet from the waist. |
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Semi-cathedral Train: (4) |
Shorter
than Cathedral and longer than Chapel train,
extending 4 1/2 to 5 1/2 feet. |
| Sweep
Train: (1) |
Shortest
train, extending back 8-12 inches after touching the
floor. |
Veils
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Ballet-length
(6) |
Ankle length and
often referred to as the waltz
veil. |
| Blusher
(2) |
Probably one
layer of veiling worn forward over the face or back over
the headpiece. |
| Cascade
(5) |
Very full,
layered look with several differing lengths of veiling. |
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Cathedral-length (7) |
Longest
of veils, generally at least 3 ½ feet in length. Trails
behind the bride several feet and attaches to headpiece
or waist. |
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Chapel-length
(8) |
Veiling that
reaches the floor but doesn't trail behind the bride,
always worn with a full-length wedding gown. |
|
Fingertip
(4) |
Gracefully falls across the
shoulders to the fingertips when the arm is extended
forward levelly (about waist level), |
| Fly-away
(3) |
Multiple
layers of veiling all brushing or ending at the shoulders. |
| Mantilla
(1) |
Made popular
by Jackie O when she married John Kennedy - this veil is
a circle of lace or nylon draped loosely over the
bride's head like a scarf. |
Headpiece Styles
|
Ballet-length
(5) |
Ankle length and
often referred to as the waltz
veil. |
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Coronet |
Crescent shaped base
decorated with satin and lace, resting high on the crown
of the head. |
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Floral Wreath |
Circle of flowers or baby's
breath that sits on top of the head, and may or may not
circle at mid-forehead. |
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Juliet Cap |
Fits crown of head snugly
and is ornately decorated with pearls and sequins. |
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Mantilla |
Lace trimmed netting with or
without a simple base which fits closely across the top
of the head and is usually secured with an elegant comb,
gently framing the face. |
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Picture Hat |
Very large brim often
elaborately decorated with laces, beads, and sequins. |
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Tiara |
Crown which rests high atop
the head often encrusted with pearls, crystals,
rhinestones, or lace. |
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